domingo, 27 de junho de 2010
domingo, 20 de junho de 2010
segunda-feira, 14 de junho de 2010
sexta-feira, 11 de junho de 2010
Apply the glue in more or less connected spots while William watches approvingly, then lay the batch on the bottom of a tub with your flock mix and let the flock flow over everyting.
Alternatively you could sprinkle your flock over the bases laid on a sheet of paper through a sieve. Don't press on the flock, and don't worry if you have everything shrouded under green dust, you can blow or brush the excess later after it's completely dry. Mind the SWMBO, though!
More later, as the beauty of this is that it is an incremental process, that is, you can add more stuff later if you feel like it. For instance, you can add more flocking on top of this one making it thicker, you can add bits of hedging, tree trunks, stones, etc. I’ve seen this referred to as a Bonsai Diorama!
As a matter of fact as my Regiment HQ base will be somewhat larger, 4x4cm, to contain one Panther, one Kubelwagen and a radio truck, I may give it a different treatment. We'll see later.
All right, so I've more or less finished the Division's Pz Regiment, time to take the plunge and tackle the Infantry.
I rummaged around and found one box of semi-painted Heroics & Ros Germans. H&R figures have been rather out of fashion lately, people are going for Adler and GHQ figures which are indeed superior, and the GHQ as usual are superlative, but as I have these ones right now that's what I'm going to do. Maybe later when I do the Volksturm I may go for GHQ ! Another fact is that GHQ are several times more expensive.
So this is the ragbag I've got.
I'm sure I have others somewhere, together with some from Main Force Miniatures, but you know how it is, when you're looking for something you'll never find it when you want it.
First of all I'm going to sort this out and give them a bath. Ideally I need 4 battalions x 9 bases worth of riflemen plus supports for the two Abteilungen which at 4-5 per base would be about 150 figures. I haven't even counted these ones.
terça-feira, 8 de junho de 2010
Now that I've done the Panthers I'll concentrate on the other vehicles (FlaK, Recce, the one below, etc) before basing all at the same time for consistency.
In the meantime here are a couple of snippets I found that may be of interest. They are presented here in "giant" scale but they apply to the smallie ones as well.
What happened to Johnson's Klear for Magic Dip and Wash Long Range Logistics http://www.longrangelogistics.com/2010/03/02/magic-wash-redux-johnsons-klear-renamed/
Incredible how thick and grainy his primer coat was...
As I said before I had a few models belonging to the TOEs that needed painting, so I stuck them on a wood strip with blu-tack (which was white!), and gave them a coat of Games Workshop Skull White spray. Must be the only good thing that ever came out of GW!
After well dry overnight, I thinned some Vallejo Acrylic paint of the appropriate German Dark Yellow (I have some quibbles with Vallejo's colour selection but...) with window washing liquid which has lower surface tension than water, so it's 'wetter'. This made the thinned paint flow nicely to the darker corners leaving convex surfaces with a nice natural highlight.
After a few good hours to dry up and let the acrylics cure, I went over to the green and brown camo colours, again thining a bit as the paint was too thick as it came out of the tube. On a couple of models the paint was thinned a lot, if necessary applying second coats of the same colour. This happened for instance to the Maus which looks rather ghastly, but it ended up rather well after shading and highlighting (or one might say these helped disguise my lousy work), but anyway the actual Maus looked like it was painted by a drunk Hitlerjunge after meeting Hitler at the Bayreuth festival.
Visiting a few railway modelling stores I managed to buy a decent variety of flocking. These are only a few of those I bought to last me a lifetime or two!
The secret is in mixing several into a tub. They will come in several textures, and to make the mix a bit more homogenous I graded them through a tea strainer I bought for the purpose.
This is a batch of 6 Panthers from the previous posts, stuck to their bases. Some of these will have some bald patches, but the flocking will cover these.
These can be stuck with white glue, epoxy, CA, whatever suits you. All reference to white glue is to the the transparent after dry variety.
sábado, 5 de junho de 2010
So here they are with a good puddly wash over engine, front, track, turret areas done with a largish brush. There is a Panther sticking out 'unwashed' for comparison.
After letting the wash evaporate for a while, the subsequent procedure took a bit of work. I took a stiff, flat square brush, moisted on thinner and excess wiped on a paper towel, and on each model I wiped the excess wash away. What took work was that after each model I had to clean the brush and wipe again so I would not accumulate more grime taken from the previous model. Takes effort but it's worth it.
This is the result, again using the same clean Panther for comparison.
Next step: after well dry go over again on the engine grilles to really darken their insides up using a fine pointed brush this time, and then on to the drybrushed highlights after all is well dry, on the following day.
I'd be using my oil colours but I want to finish this series relatively soon, it would take days between each layer!
To do things properly, I'd blu-tack the hulls and turrets onto wooden strips, but I've run out of them and haven't found a supplier where I'm living now. As a consequence my fingernails look like I've been changing the oil on a Catterpillar!
Here are a few photos showing up what drybrushing does. On that Pnather row from left to right seen from behind is a base paint only, a shaded model, and a shaded and then highlighted one.
For the drybrush I used some base yellow paint with some added white and yellow, but I might have used some straight from the bottle Sand. For the Pz IVs I used Dark Flesh and it worked fine!
Drybruhing should be done after you remove most of the paint from the brush and are left with a dry trace only (it's drybrushing, right?), and should be applied in vertical flicks.
There's no secret at all about this, only that less is more and if you find you don't have enought contrast, don't add more paint, instead go over the drybrushing process again.
sexta-feira, 4 de junho de 2010
Devido às pesadas baixas sofridas pelos artilheiros do Regimento de Artilharia nº 4, foi necessário destacar um soldado do Batalhão de Caçadores nº 6, para exercer as funções de servente de artilharia.
Para quem quiser ver a recriação histórica da Batalha de Albuera realizada este ano, ao vivo e a cores, pode fazê-lo em: